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THE   REASON  A  DOG  HAS  SO  MANY  FRIENDS   IS  THAT  HE 

  WAGS  HIS  TAIL  INSTEAD  OF  HIS  TONGUE

                                                                                                                                                                        -ANONYMOUS

LOADS OF INFORMATION ON THIS PAGE......HEALTH ,  COLOR MYTH,  GROOMING TIPS

From  The American Shih Tzu Club by JoAnn White

   1.)Shih Tzu puppies often have slightly pinched nostrils that generally open with time. The bubbly discharge from a Shih Tzu puppies nose is NOT serious if the discharge is clear and watery and the puppy is otherwise thriving. This problem is most acute during the teething stage. Even the nostrils of a dog that has difficulty simultaneously eating and breathing or is lethargic at this time may open satisfactorily as the dog matures but a few dogs this severely affected may require surgery later on.

 Note: I  have had a couple of the puppies born here with pinched nostrils, operated on and the nostrils surgically opened.

  2.)Small umbilical hernias (a bubble-like protrusion of  fat at the navel through an opening no larger than the tip of your little finger) are common in Shih Tzu and are often due to excess stress on the umbilical cord during delivery. Such hernias often close naturally over time, although you may want to have them surgically closed while your pet is being spayed or neutered. Unlike inguinal (groin area) hernias, they are NOT a reason to avoid breeding your dog.

Note: Very few of the puppies born and raised here have umbilical hernias, as we assist the mom in whelping and we cut the umbilical cord rather than letting mom stress over it and chew it too close. We have found that this practise has prevented umbilical hernias

  3.)Shih Tzu quite often cut their teeth relatively late and lose them relatively early. Undershot bites (lower jaw protruding beyond the upper one) are characteristic of this breed and crowded, poorly aligned and missing incisors are common.

   4.)Reverse sneezing describes a condition in which the dog seems to be unable to get its breath and begins to honk or snort. It is most often caused  by a slightly elongated soft palate that "sticks" until the dog takes a deep breath through its mouth. The most effective way to stop this is to put a finger over the dogs nostrils, thereby forcing it to breathe through its    mouth. Sometimes just a hug and some reassurance will do the trick! Unlike more serious problems found in brachycephalic (short-faced) dogs, reverse sneezing is quite common and is not life threatening.

  5.)Eye injuries are common in short-faced, large-eyed breeds and require immediate veterinary attention. If your dogs eye is red or if it is squinting or pawing at one eye, take it to the vet at once.

 

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OUR VACCINATION PROTOCOL

At  4  weeks of age,  our puppies are given a vaccination against Parvovirus. At 6, 10 and 12 weeks of age they are given a 4-way vaccination against  Canine Distemper, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus  and  Adenovirus Type 2 .  At  16  weeks of age, they  receive another 4 -way vaccination and rabies vaccination.  Each year after, they receive a 4-way vaccination and a rabies vaccination. For detailed information on any of these, please go on the internet and  read about Parvovirus or any illnesses that could affect your puppy/dog and the importance  of vaccinating  your puppy/dog.

 

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KENNEL COUGH

Kennel Kennel cough or tracheobronchitis is a highly contagious canine illness characterized by inflammation of the upper respiratory system. It can be caused by viral infections such as canine distemper, canine adenovirus, canine parainfluenza virus, or canine respiratory coronavirus, or bacterial infections such as Bordetella bronchiseptica. It is so named because the infection can spread quickly among dogs, such as in the close quarters of a kennel.

Infection

Both viral and bacterial causes of kennel cough are spread through the air by infected dogs sneezing and coughing. It can also spread through contact with contaminated surfaces and through direct contact. It is highly contagious, even days or weeks after symptoms disappear. Symptoms begin usually 3 to 5 days after exposure. The disease can progress to pneumonia.    Contact with other dogs must be avoided at all costs and the infected animal must be quarantined within your own home.

If your dog was infected whilst being housed at a Kennel or the Vet's surgery; then it should be reported promptly to the animal welfare officer at your local council or the council of the area where the infection took place.

 Symptoms

Symptoms can include a harsh, dry hacking/coughing, retching, sneezing, snorting, gagging or vomiting in response to light pressing of the trachea or after excitement or exercise. The presence of a fever varies from case to case. The disease can last initially from 10-20 days and can rebreak when the dog is put into a stressful situation which puts stress on the dog's immune system. Diagnosis is made by seeing these symptoms, having a history of exposure is also helpful but not always found as kennel cough is easily spread through contact with contaminated surfaces such as the ground, toys, sidewalks, dog parks.

Treatment and prevention

Antibiotics are given to treat any bacterial infection present. Cough suppressants are used if the cough is not productive (nothing is being coughed up). The prognosis is good. Prevention is by vaccinating for canine adenovirus, distemper, parainfluenza, and Bordetella. In kennels, the best prevention is to keep all the cages disinfected. Most kennels will not board dogs without proof of vaccination.

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COCCIDIA  AND HYPOGLYCEMIA

Shih Tzu, like many of the toy breeds, are susceptible to hypoglycemia and coccidia caused by stress associated with separation and travel.

Coccidia are microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites belonging to the apicomplexan class Conoidasida. Coccidian parasites infect the intestinal tracts of animals, and are the largest group of apicomplexan protozoa.

Coccidia are obligate, intracellular parasites, which means that they must live and reproduce within an animal cell.

COCCIDIOSIS:

Coccidiosis is the disease caused by coccidian infection. Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease of the intestinal tract of animals, caused by coccidian protozoa. The disease spreads from one animal to another by contact with infected feces or ingestion of infected tissue. Diarrhea, which may become bloody in severe cases, is the primary symptom. Most animals infected with coccidia are asymptomatic; however, young or immuno-compromised animals may suffer severe symptoms, including death.

While coccidian organisms can infect a wide variety of animals, including humans, birds, and livestock, they are usually species-specific. One well-known exception is toxoplasmosis, caused by Toxoplasma gondii.

People often first encounter coccidia when they acquire a young puppy or kitten who is infected. The infectious organisms are canine/feline-specific and are not contagious to humans (compare to zoonotic diseases).

COCCIDIA IN DOGS:

Young puppies are frequently infected with coccidia and often develop active Coccidiosis -- even puppies obtained from diligent professional breeders. Infected puppies almost always have received the parasite from their mother's feces. Typically, healthy adult animals shedding the parasite's oocysts in their feces will be asymptomatic because of their developed immune systems. However, undeveloped immune systems make puppies more susceptible. Further, stressors such as new owners, travel, weather changes, and unsanitary conditions are believed to activate infections in susceptible animals.

Symptoms in young dogs are universal: at some point around 2-3 months of age, an infected dog develops persistently loose stools. This diarrhea proceeds to stool containing liquid, thick mucus, and light colored fecal matter. As the infection progresses, spots of blood may become apparent in the stool, and sudden bowel movements may surprise both dog and owner alike. Other symptoms may include poor appetite, vomiting, dehydration, and sometimes death. Coccidia infection is so common that any pup under 4 months old with these symptoms can almost surely be assumed to have coccidiosis.

Fortunately, the treatment is inexpensive, extremely effective, and routine. A veterinarian can easily diagnose the disease through low-powered microscopic examination of an affected dog's feces, which usually will be replete with oocysts. One of many easily administered and inexpensive drugs will be prescribed, and, in the course of just a few days, an infection will be eliminated or perhaps reduced to such a level that the dog's immune system can make its own progress against the infection. Even when an infection has progressed sufficiently that blood is present in feces, permanent damage to the gastrointestinal system is rare, and the dog will most likely make a complete recovery without long-lasting negative effects.

If one dog of a litter has coccidiosis, then most certainly all dogs at a breeder's kennels have active coccidia infections. Breeders should be notified if a newly-acquired pup is discovered to be infected with coccidia. Breeders can take steps to eradicate the organism from their kennels, including applying medications in bulk to an entire facility.ity.

HYPOGLYCEMIA:

 Hypoglycemia  is  very low blood glucoser. Since the brain requires glucose for fuel at every second, it's possible to induce coma, seizures,brain damage and death by letting blood glucose drop too low. Because the brain is almost totally dependent on glucose to make use of oxygen, it is somewhat like having severe breathing problems. Though the causes and mechanisms are different, in both cases the brain does not have enough oxygen, and similar symptoms and problems can occur. It is caused by giving too much insulin for the body's current needs.

The blood glucose level at which an animal (or person) is dangerously hypoglycemic is fuzzy, and depends on several factors. The line is different for diabetics and non-diabetics, and differs between individuals and depending on exogenous insulin and what the individual is accustomed to.

The most likely time for an acute hypoglycemia episode is when the insulin is working hardest, or at its peak; this is when blood glucose levels are at their lowest, or nadir, due to the action of the insulin. Mild lows may cause lethargy and sleepiness.

An acute hypoglycemic episode can happen even if you are careful, since pets' insulin requirements sometimes change without warning. Pets and people can have hypoglycemic episodes because of increases to physical activity. What makes those with diabetes prone to hypoglycemia is that muscles require glucose for proper function. The more active muscles become, the more their need for glucose increases. Conversely, there can also be hyperglycemic reactions from this; it depends on the individual/caregiver knowing him/herself and the pet's reactions.

Vomiting and diarrhea episodes can bring on a hypoglycemia reaction, due to dehydration.

According to a 2000 JAVMA study, dogs receiving insulin injections only once daily at high doses[11] are more likely to have hypoglycemic episodes than those who receive insulin twice daily

 

The most serious side effect of too much insulin is hypoglycemia, or low blood glucose. Hypoglycemia can be a life-threatening, even fatal condition.
Classic signs of hypoglycemia
  • lethargy (lack of energy) , weakness, head tilting , "drunkedness" - wobbling when walking, unbalanced
  • hunger , restlessness , shivering
  • ataxia - usually lack of muscular coordination, but maybe changes in head and neck movements
  • disorientation , stupor , convulsions or seizures , coma

The occurrence of signs depends on how far the bg drops and on how fast the blood glucose drops.

Owners of diabetic dogs have also reported observing these signs

  • sweating - check the nose and the paw pads.
  • lip smacking or licking
  • getting physically "stuck" in a place where the pet normally could get itself out (for example, behind a partially closed door that a pet would usually nudge open.)

Some animals are asymptomatic at very low bg values. This means they do not show any of the usual signs of hypoglycemia even though their bg is very low. Read experiences of three pets who have had episodes of asymptomatic hypoglycemia.

Be Prepared
Always have corn syrup or sugar available. Corn syrup works well because it is a very pure sugar, and it is liquid. In the U.S. "Karo" is a brand name of corn syrup and you'll often see this word used. 
Karo is not available in Canada, but similar corn syrup products are available.  Pancake syrup, honey, or table sugar dissolved in some water will also work.  Wherever your pet is, there should be an emergency supply of sugar. You should carry sugar with you when you take your pet out of the house, even for a short walk. 

How to carry a sugar supply -- purse, doggie pack, car, or pocket

  • Use small screw-top plastic bottles (Nalgene) from a sporting goods store or "travel-size" plastic bottles from the drug store.
  • Packets of honey.
  • Liquid glucose packets can be purchased at the pharmacy.  The tablets might work if your pet is just beginning to show signs of hypo, but a liquid sugar is better - faster acting and easy to use. 
  • A tube of cake decorating gel, which is mostly sugar.
  • Another person filled a 1mL syringe (no needle) with corn syrup, and carried it on trips in case she needed to get it into her cat's mouth. With a syringe, it is easy to get the syrup in the mouth without being bitten. 
  • One owner connects a small pouch with a plastic bottle filled with corn syrup onto her dog's harness.  This way sugar is always with them on their walks.

In an emergency, you don't want to be searching for sugar.  Many dog owners have been caught completely unprepared for their dog's hypo attack. At an obedience class, all one owner could find to feed her dog was powdered donuts. Another owner had her dog in the car and the dog started convulsing. She pulled into a gas station and purchase pancake syrup. It is better to be prepared than to have to search for something that might work, so put corn syrup on your grocery list and buy it.  Then put a small container anywhere it will be needed and is easy to get to.

Treating hypoglycemia
During a hypo attack, your goal is to stay calm, bring the blood glucose back to a safe level, continue to observe your pet, and contact the vet.  As part of your introduction to diabetes, your vet should have explained the classic signs of hypoglycemia and how to treat it. If he didn't, or if you forgot, you should discuss it with the vet again. There is a lot to learn in the beginning, and sometimes it all doesn't sink in the first time.  

If your pet is acting strangely, you should assume it is due to hypoglycemia and treat it accordingly. This is a situation where it is better to be safe than sorry.  If your pet is not hypoglycemic, your treatment may have raised the blood glucose for a few hours.  But if your pet is hypoglycemic, you have just saved its life. 

How you treat the hypo depends on many factors. If your pet shows clear signs of hypo, if you have a good idea of how the insulin effects your pet, or if you are doing home bg testing, you can be more precise in your treatment and maybe avoid giving too much food or sugar.  But again, it is better to give too much food or sugar than not enough. Here are some
questions you can ask your vet to help you prepare for a hypo attack.

These are general guidelines for treating hypoglycemia. Ask your vet for information that is specific to your pet.

  • Mild hypoglycemia  If your pet's bg is only slightly low or if it is showing only mild signs of hypoglycemia, you can often treat it by immediately feeding the pet some of its regular food. The blood glucose raising effects of the food may be enough to counteract the hypoglycemia. If your pet refuses its regular food, try offering a food it really enjoys or some treats. Any food is probably ok in this situation. Your main concern is to get the blood glucose up and to eliminate the signs of hypoglycemia. You need to observe your pet for several hours to make sure the hypoglycemia does not happen again.
  • Moderate hypoglycemia  Corn syrup should be given, either alone, or combined with food.  Syrup can be mixed in with wet food or drizzled over dry food. The syrup will help bring the bg up quickly, and the food will help keep the bg elevated for a longer period of time. Cats should be fed about one tablespoon of syrup. If the cat won't eat it, rub it on the gums and inside of the cheeks. Small dogs should be given about 1-2 tablespoons, or larger dogs should get 0.25-0.5 mL per pound of body weight. You need to observe your pet for several hours to make sure the hypoglycemia does not happen again.

    The blood glucose raising effects of the syrup will last only for a short time. If the insulin is long lasting or if the hypoglycemia is severe, the effects of the syrup will wear off and the the hypoglycemia may come back. Continue observing your pet, and give syrup or syrup and food as needed.
  • Severe hypoglycemia If your pet is severely hypoglycemic, especially if it is having seizures or unconscious, you must give corn syrup immediately. Carefully rub small amounts of syrup on the cheeks and gums. Do not put a lot of liquid in the pet's mouth, and be sure the pet does not choke. Do not stick your fingers inside the teeth of a seizuring pet - you may get bitten. Then, Call the vet. If you can not contact your vet, call any vet - and get additional instructions. Your pet will probably have to go to the vet immediately.
  • Follow up  Whenever a pet has a hypoglycemic attack, you should contact your veterinarian. Future doses of insulin should be reduced until a proper insulin dose adjustment can be made. Making the proper adjustment will probably be based on the results of a blood glucose curve

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     The importance of making sure a puppy eats (especially during the first 24 hours after bringing it home) cannot be emphasized enough. I usually like to give a puppy some Dyne for the first couple days after I bring them home. These little puppies love to be loved.

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The Rare Color Myth

The term "rare color" is simply another marketing gimmick.

              Color : according to the Shih Tzu breed standard " All are permissible and to be considered equally."

Any breeder telling you they have "rare colors" is just giving you a sales pitch in an attempt to make a higher profit.

Ethical, responsible breeders breed to meet the breed standard. They do not breed to produce "rare colors" to sell for more profit. 

While Chocolate, Blue, and Solid colors are all allowed, the truth is the traditional colors of Gold & White and Silver & White with a nice blaze on the face, and even markings have been preferred in the show ring. 

A little known fact is that the first Champion Shih Tzu in 1949 was a Liver (Chocolate) & White shih tzu, Ta Chi of Taishan.   

Chocolate (liver) with a liver pigment nose is simply carried recessively.  Although an awesome variety of shades of brown; they are not a rare color.

Blue with a blue pigment nose, is simply a dilute carried recessively. Once again, gorgeous shades of blue but they are not a rare color.

Piebald spotting and Irish spotting are the pattern of White in the coat.

Pure White is just an extreme piebald spotting gene.  It is not a rare color. 

Gold comes in many shades from a light cream, apricot or peachy color to a dark gold, none are a rare color.

Red comes in many shades from an orange to a deep mahogany red, none are a rare color.

Shih Tzu also have a Brindle gene, a Fading gene and a Silver/Chinchilla gene. They can have a black mask.

All of which makes for the wonderful rainbow of colors that our lovely Shih Tzu come in. 

Because these combination of genes that control color are allowed in the Shih Tzu breed, there is no way to guarantee your shih tzu will remain the color it is when purchased as a puppy. 

A deep gold can fade to a a pretty soft cream color, a dark black can silver out to a striking silver.  A rich chocolate can turn into an attractive cinnamon shade.  A shih tzu that looks black, when cut in a puppy clip, tiger stripes (brindle) can appear!

Our shih tzu come in all the wonderful colors available.  So whatever color you prefer, check with us, we just may have the puppy for you or know a breeder who has the color you are looking for, available at that time.  

 

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The Shih Tzu has human-like hair that makes up its coat instead of fur like most other dogs so when giving your dog a hair cut, keep that in mind.  The things that hurt you when you get your hair cut are even worse for your dog so if you have scissors that are so dull that they pull hair out instead of cutting it, if you pull the hair up to cut it, do not yank it up.

  A Shih Tzu dog's coat grows quickly so you are going to need to get a hair cut probably relatively early in your dog's life. A hair cut is a pretty big deal for a Shih Tzu so you are more than welcome to try it yourself if you feel you can give your dog the proper type of cut. If you would rather have someone else do it then that is fine and probably preferable. But in the end it is important to do what you feel is right for your dog.

Shih Tzus loved to be brushed so if you slowly incorporate scissors into the brushing, it does not seem to bother the puppy or dog as much; they stay calmer and grooming does not seem to be such a bad thing in their minds. I usually trim the hair on my puppies feet around 5 weeks old....very slowly as puppies like to make sudden little movements. I also keep the hair around their eyes trimmed as hair in the eyes is not only very annoying to a Shih Tzu but it can cause an infection so make sure this area is maintained

   Always make sure your Shih Tzu hair cut makes the dog's coat shorter in the summer and a little longer in the winter. In the summer it needs to be short otherwise your      dog  will start to experience health problems with the heat. In the winter you can leave it as long as you like, but make sure the dog can still run and walk without tripping over its coat. Some people like to leave little pieces of hair so they can attach bows and ribbons, which is common among owners. The dogs, however, do not always like it.

Giving your Shih Tzu a hair cut yourself is just fine but you may want to watch a professional do it first.